Printing guide
How to Print Trading Card Binder Art at Home (300 DPI)
A step-by-step guide to printing extended binder art at home: paper, printer settings, 300 DPI, borderless vs crop marks, and trimming for clean pocket fits.
July 16, 2026
Extended binder art only looks its best when it’s printed at the right size and trimmed cleanly. The good news: it needs no special gear — a home printer, the included PDF packs, and a pair of scissors or a craft knife will do it. Here’s how to get crisp, pocket-perfect results.
1. Start from the PDF print pack, not the raw PNG
Each design ships with A4 and US Letter PDF print packs that already place the art at the correct physical size for each pocket, with crop marks. Printing from these PDFs is the reliable path, because the sizing is baked in — you’re not left to scale an image by eye.
Only reach for the raw 300 DPI PNGs if you’re compositing in your own software and you know the target dimensions.
2. Pick the right paper
You’re printing something that has to sit flat behind a card and slide into a sleeve pocket:
- Weight: 120–200 gsm is the sweet spot — sturdy enough to feel premium, thin enough to trim and insert.
- Finish: matte or lightly satin photo paper keeps the dark artwork rich without the glare (and fingerprints) of high gloss.
- Avoid: heavy cardstock that won’t fit a pocket, and thin copy paper that lets the card show through.
3. Turn off “fit to page” — this is the big one
The single most common mistake is letting the printer scale the file. In your print dialog:
- Set scaling to 100% / Actual size (never “Fit” or “Shrink to fit”).
- Print at the highest quality setting.
- Match the paper type in the driver to what you loaded (e.g. “Matte Photo”).
- Turn off auto-enhance, vivid, or color-correction modes — the files are already color-tuned.
Scaling to fit is what makes pockets stop lining up, so lock this in first.
4. Do a test print
Before committing your good paper, print one page on plain paper and hold it against an empty pocket page. The crop marks should line up with the pocket grid. If they’re slightly off, it’s almost always a scaling setting — recheck step 3.
5. Trim along the crop marks
Cut on the crop marks with a guillotine trimmer, craft knife and steel ruler, or sharp scissors. A trimmer gives the straightest edges, but careful scissor work is fine. Trim just inside the marks so no white line shows at the pocket edge.
6. Insert and build the page
Slide each trimmed piece into its pocket — behind the card for a framed look, or on its own in the connected layouts. Work left to right, top to bottom, and the scene will assemble across the page.
Tip: the files include both transparent and solid-black backgrounds. Use solid black for a clean, consistent page; use transparent if you’re layering the art over something else.
Prefer a print shop?
Every pack includes A4 and US Letter PDFs specifically so you can hand them to a local print shop or an online service. Ask for 300 DPI, actual size, no scaling, on matte photo paper — the same rules as above.
Not sure which paper size to choose? See A4 vs US Letter for binder pages. Want the full continuous-scene look on your first page? Browse the designs and start with a featured set.
Frequently asked
What printer settings should I use for binder art?
Print at 300 DPI (actual size, no 'fit to page' scaling), turn off any auto-enhance or color-correction, choose the highest quality setting, and match the paper type in your driver to the paper you loaded. Scaling to fit is the most common cause of pockets that don't line up.
What paper is best for binder art?
A heavier matte or lightly satin photo paper (120–200 gsm) holds color well and slides into pockets without curling. Very glossy or very thick cardstock can be harder to trim cleanly and may not sit flat behind a card.
Do I need a special printer?
No. Any decent inkjet or laser printer that can do 300 DPI will work. For the sharpest color, an inkjet on matte photo paper is a safe default — or send the PDF print pack to a local print shop.
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